tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5448159104225176142024-03-18T20:36:04.646-07:00LetterDesignBlogjoanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.comBlogger51125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-70991361518031562962022-03-26T09:59:00.000-07:002022-03-26T09:59:58.396-07:00Daily Painting once a Week Continues!<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6D_eHPAEPoPcoeGtDpvWk9njhmOs7ylzQvnVZMSeQe8sj-_hdlPfbYjRNMqt7vACXi5OAKOLQxpAJg_dgGd_h7klrg_ISrUDTboDQ-ORcT1frpj4Js2mNPLP8BMYgh0D6Nn3ACn0vb2LIrpWrJWRrUBReVuihBiZFIU5WjsZWW34QCNDAkL9eXLwuCA/s2289/4425023D-8940-49BC-A5C7-006D8D135B09.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2289" data-original-width="2278" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6D_eHPAEPoPcoeGtDpvWk9njhmOs7ylzQvnVZMSeQe8sj-_hdlPfbYjRNMqt7vACXi5OAKOLQxpAJg_dgGd_h7klrg_ISrUDTboDQ-ORcT1frpj4Js2mNPLP8BMYgh0D6Nn3ACn0vb2LIrpWrJWRrUBReVuihBiZFIU5WjsZWW34QCNDAkL9eXLwuCA/s320/4425023D-8940-49BC-A5C7-006D8D135B09.jpeg" width="318" /></a></div>Lots of learning! The e would have had a crisper background on a smoother surface and F would have been more what I had in mind on the canvas one. Trying to get the F as I wanted it lost me the original plan of making it look very equal with either F right-side-up.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwisR93MH6N2_5V_FqOyWuwrcaNxc8esimExEY5-gTd3TvIzxvW0QiG3XZgmSe93gGESwmGj5UIgQwm2pqr5v8j3KVhI3E75s-XvLH9Nadur3rpaoiJpbWqok_xqd0IralNzGOq7aeu5_AI2-4s9jDCzIPYZTgUreSalK-_ikAYnrHV-qXZ9sK6ItFog/s2276/CD35BD70-7E32-49E3-A7DC-3C9D94049C73.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2272" data-original-width="2276" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwisR93MH6N2_5V_FqOyWuwrcaNxc8esimExEY5-gTd3TvIzxvW0QiG3XZgmSe93gGESwmGj5UIgQwm2pqr5v8j3KVhI3E75s-XvLH9Nadur3rpaoiJpbWqok_xqd0IralNzGOq7aeu5_AI2-4s9jDCzIPYZTgUreSalK-_ikAYnrHV-qXZ9sK6ItFog/s320/CD35BD70-7E32-49E3-A7DC-3C9D94049C73.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7WgegoQj2a-P2NM_lZETGke76K2y54e_Kcq8zRgRLynli99iLKwEveLtY0Nt4U3ilYiWoVEPMg2aXHXcVavYffMpD2eJC0BPiT36DGFt-akjP0Ni9L3e0bJEIPBRgcaBMc7zbzsLlzawYFjPZJZzrm-wvgP25zdrlzHYNMh0LpVbo97xi7sHF_iUIqw/s2172/4CA8A55B-56D1-4F6C-9473-14E98BEFB71F.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2088" data-original-width="2172" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7WgegoQj2a-P2NM_lZETGke76K2y54e_Kcq8zRgRLynli99iLKwEveLtY0Nt4U3ilYiWoVEPMg2aXHXcVavYffMpD2eJC0BPiT36DGFt-akjP0Ni9L3e0bJEIPBRgcaBMc7zbzsLlzawYFjPZJZzrm-wvgP25zdrlzHYNMh0LpVbo97xi7sHF_iUIqw/s320/4CA8A55B-56D1-4F6C-9473-14E98BEFB71F.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>I started out thinking I would be doing quick palette knife paintings and learn a lot about using them, but I keep designing things that need brushes. So I played with a small knife on the F’s when I wasn’t liking them anyway. I’ve considered taping a note to the back of each one with all the things I would change or do differently …<p></p>joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-5322036943752153472022-03-13T07:53:00.003-07:002022-03-13T07:53:24.396-07:00A-B-C-…..<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh7WaN-R6AcL_851L_bQT7sZZmXCt5hhviB6cl8bXN2TwKY3GBQap9NkNnINl_l2Ngp-uL93bEH82d-oZxYCYwh61B-_He7i3P_uAMUsZ6IPpNJ0qfOx7wCf0RrpfgcsgHKNZnU7LbUIadDJO_temC2wQRs2Upi_Xlh8om7Bdr6in7XDCKOIpl35i3-zA=s2112" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="400" data-original-height="2104" data-original-width="2112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh7WaN-R6AcL_851L_bQT7sZZmXCt5hhviB6cl8bXN2TwKY3GBQap9NkNnINl_l2Ngp-uL93bEH82d-oZxYCYwh61B-_He7i3P_uAMUsZ6IPpNJ0qfOx7wCf0RrpfgcsgHKNZnU7LbUIadDJO_temC2wQRs2Upi_Xlh8om7Bdr6in7XDCKOIpl35i3-zA=s400"/></a></div>
Deliverer, and a relatively simple design. practice with balance, shifting values, fine writing with paintbrush. i'm liking canvas' texture for having more color interet from bits of others showing through. I'm pleased at the daily small painting concept's success in enabling me to use small bits of time and actually finish things (even though they are imperfect, it's easy to tell myself that's OK as I am doing them to learn)joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-84827221534805076592022-03-05T17:32:00.003-08:002022-03-06T15:51:35.127-08:00I already forgot I started putting these on the blog…<p> Weeks two and three! I’m really happy that I’m actually doing one per week -- and I’m almost done with a couple more, so if life gets too busy I have some leeway without losing my goal. I think after spending nine months last year on a very complicated and large piece (that didn’t make it into the intended show), this is really helping me enjoy learning more about painting. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjwY5yMRRbFsjJpqXqQzxIjgBEF4GDQGasv4Ba8AbPkVxUhXPPf3lppzlUVThe8awpnDhCRETrDlDnuN4xdkEmlLs9AXcqICrGMpUXY1QbStSYTSZ8Tf518R22QSrceerlLThkKwZdAMVqewSa-3qZgTbPvx2jW1GX3hkpa73Su9n5bkABk0zicZi6FAQ=s2213" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2193" data-original-width="2213" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjwY5yMRRbFsjJpqXqQzxIjgBEF4GDQGasv4Ba8AbPkVxUhXPPf3lppzlUVThe8awpnDhCRETrDlDnuN4xdkEmlLs9AXcqICrGMpUXY1QbStSYTSZ8Tf518R22QSrceerlLThkKwZdAMVqewSa-3qZgTbPvx2jW1GX3hkpa73Su9n5bkABk0zicZi6FAQ=w400-h396" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Beloved Son</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">And week three, Creator.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiH3o_ZPWx_6KEv1yOpy6atykZrzp4rAQuNUAROXl89yA3dO8BSGbc9kEXHTXAyqu0-ofviH7754yzFh8REEgTw4dNof3BJ5qGnyLNHubxnCR6fIPS5cUcQFBaXgYLWEJr9aAmYfUKfs0Pel_7z0wdCUxDCJIjyXgKzLF9xR-nZUNTnoEENCCsWbicD-Q=s2316" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2316" data-original-width="2286" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiH3o_ZPWx_6KEv1yOpy6atykZrzp4rAQuNUAROXl89yA3dO8BSGbc9kEXHTXAyqu0-ofviH7754yzFh8REEgTw4dNof3BJ5qGnyLNHubxnCR6fIPS5cUcQFBaXgYLWEJr9aAmYfUKfs0Pel_7z0wdCUxDCJIjyXgKzLF9xR-nZUNTnoEENCCsWbicD-Q=w632-h640" width="632" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>There are plenty of things I would do differently or even fuss with fixing, except the idea of daily painting (even if I'm doing weekly) is to do them quickly and not stress or fuss but move on and learn. I can always paint over them some day if I feel like it or go back and touch-up when I want to. Some of them looked better halfway through than "done", part of the education ....<p></p><div>Meanwhile it fits really well with our current schedule - I can do pencil work for designs during slow times in the office. I even used the x-acto that happened to be in my desk drawer when we got our office spots to cut a stencil for Creator (using letters I designed based on <a href="https://www.wildmandesigns.com/onlineclasses">Julie Wildmans' "The Inside Curve"</a> class I did during covid lock-down, thanks Julie!). I can use short bits of time easily to tone the little canvas board or paint a bit, etc. I even have kept bits of palette paper in an air-tight watercolor palette I got so I can more easily use a bit of mixed paint another day.</div><div><br /></div><div>Meanwhile I can consider what we were told recently in a devotional - that taking the upon us the name of Christ means (among other things) taking on or developing His characteristics. So Creator fits right into this project :)</div><div><br /></div><div>One downside is that I assumed I would work with palette knives mostly - to be quick and to learn more about using them, but I keep planning things that need to be done with brushes and I only have some cheap ones. </div><div><br /></div><div>If anyone happens to know something I could use for Q, X or Z, feel free to let me know....</div>joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-42321657612648673772022-02-20T07:14:00.002-08:002022-02-21T17:38:54.665-08:00Daily Painting Weekly<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjo9bVBfYh1O87_47m_ee1Ku9I6pcdJaG3FR2IlLzThBUyF_1Ucxx9Kk3QX2bPP8dQXV4shJ7cqJ2OnuMC-6Vblp9PmvNJURcHflF5Y8jElfhPmyXTVGiwxMPfLEn86zFzgl58k8GrlswVqmAoIcWVOSf9_51n1Q9tSPPf5y-p-0UgVA8qh1QLZoHED5g=s3264" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjo9bVBfYh1O87_47m_ee1Ku9I6pcdJaG3FR2IlLzThBUyF_1Ucxx9Kk3QX2bPP8dQXV4shJ7cqJ2OnuMC-6Vblp9PmvNJURcHflF5Y8jElfhPmyXTVGiwxMPfLEn86zFzgl58k8GrlswVqmAoIcWVOSf9_51n1Q9tSPPf5y-p-0UgVA8qh1QLZoHED5g=w640-h480" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><div class="gmail_quote" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">I’ll try to make a really long story as short as I can. Some of you may know we were are doing mission service again, this time in Salt Lake CIty at church headquarters where we work with the <a href="https://merrellsmission.blogspot.com/2021/08/who-knew-july-into-august-2021.html">Mission Department 8-5</a>. </div><div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">I have a harder time with life when I’m not involved in something creative and evenings don’t work well for me to do this, so I brought the sketchbook I took to Brasil and pencils to work on graphite lettering, to design things and possibly practice brush pen lettering when it’s slow at work. I did do a bit of this and I started on an idea for designing pages for a possible accordion book of names of Christ.</div><div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr"><br /></div><div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">An unexpected offer of a set of water-soluble oils came my way (my medium of choice for painting) from an artist in SLC who hadn't used them for the project she bought them for, so I had an option I hadn't planned on. But I couldn't quite figure out to use them in a way that worked for my schedule, space, lack of other materials/equipment.</div><div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr"><br /></div><div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">A second bit of serendipity came when we were able to get another desk, so now I have the plastic table we bought for art and the desk for study and I can leave everything ready to go and not spend my bits of time just moving things about and prepping. So I got the book "Daily Painting" and a supply order from Dick Blick. I figure there's no way to do daily but possibly weekly.</div><div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr"><br /></div>The next hurdle was that I’m not great at drawing so just designing/sketching something to paint could take up my limited time and energy — until I realized (in the middle of the night) that since I’ve been mulling for years over ways to combine my lettering skills with oil painting, I could do letters as the subject(s), which I have been drawing and studying for years. </div><div class="gmail_quote" dir="auto" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br /></div><div class="gmail_quote" dir="auto" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Just days later when our Sunday School teacher invited us to create a personal token to remind of us of our covenants and how they bind us to Christ - I suddenly realized I could put it all together! and do little, fairly quick paintings of letters representing name of Christ and viola, it all came together and I already have one "done" (might need fixing) and two more over half done and two mostly designed! This one is A for the Great I Am and also Alpha and Omega. Only 6” square and still wet. </div><div class="gmail_quote" dir="auto" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br /></div><div class="gmail_quote" dir="auto" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">I often tend to study/ponder scriptures and quotes through my calligraphy so this works for me in many ways and we'll see how well I can keep up. I might actually start using Instagram and see if I can post a little painting every week. Maybe since I have a bit of head start I can keep it going. Obviously there are plenty of flaws in this first one, but the idea is to do fairly fast and small ones that help you learn techniques and get practice without stress of investing a lot into it, so if its not good you can scrape it off and paint over it or even toss it, so I may or may not work on it more. Maybe some evenings when I want to dabble a few minutes I will see if I can improve it but then again, I might make it worse :) that's part of the learning too.</div><div class="gmail_quote" dir="auto" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Update, as part of reporting on our Sunday school challenge the teacher showed photos and left mine up on the big screen for a while during the next part of her lesson. Seeing it greatly enlarged convinced me to to do some clean-up :)</div><div class="gmail_quote" dir="auto" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br /></div><div class="gmail_quote" dir="auto" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br /></div>joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-61824434896331452222020-04-23T16:51:00.000-07:002020-04-23T16:55:13.237-07:00STEP 7: Fixing your polymer clay papercasting moldEvery mold is going to have some imperfections - until you look at a casting you can't tell which ones matter. Sometimes dents or bumps in the mold do't show at all in the <a href="http://letterdesignstudio.blogspot.com/2012/07/making-your-papercasting.html">casting,</a> sometimes they show a lot but are hard to find on the mold.<br />
The most serious defects are those that keep the casting from coming out cleanly (or at all). You should take your test casting and hold it next to the mold to figure out what changes are needed. You may have to look closely to tell if a rough part of the casting was due to the mold or simply didn't have enough pulp in it. An Optivisor or reading glasses can be helpful.<br />
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Where a bit of pulp stuck, you may have packed it in too tightly or you may have roughness or undercutting that is grabbing the paper.<br />
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There are two main ways to fix; scraping away and adding clay.<br />
If there are bumps or rough areas, you can gently and gradually scrape with the x-acto knife, being careful not to scratch up your smooth surfaces with the tip. If you have done some real undercutting, you may want to scrape away the top that overhangs, but more likely you will want to add in clay. Roll tiny snakes of softened clay, smash them down in with your <a href="http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount-art-supplies/brushes-and-palette-knives/colour-shapers/clay-shaper-sets.htm">clay shaper,</a> smooth away the excess with the clay shaper or other ceramic tools. If you add clay you will need to bake again, but if it is tiny bits you may only need 5-120 minutes. You can keep test casting and improving, but making too many times can really add to air bubble bumps.<br />
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If there is part of the mold that you cut wrong or just don't like, it is possible to fill it in with clay and cut/impress anew - what tools depend on whether you are working the baked or unbaked parts. You can carve into baked clay but be careful, you can chip off pieces you didn't mean to. Liquid Sculpey can be used to fill in or smooth a lower part of a mold for major repair (like when you cut a part through too many layers in a multi-layered project)<br />
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If parts of the design are too tight or narrow and it was hard to get pulp in or out, you can open up shapes without changing the design much by gently scraping more of a "V" shape, widening the top but being careful not to cut into the bottom layer. You can also cut or scrape along edges to make your letters or pattern more even or more bold.<br />
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If pieces of the mold (counters in your letters usually) came off into the casting, you might have left waxed paper under them. This rarely happens if you make sure it is cleaned off and use some <a href="http://www.dickblick.com/products/sculpey-clay-softener/">Sculpey diluent/softener </a>under small pieces. Sometimes after long use things will break off. You can reattach - the best way I've found is using a tiny bit of superglue gel. You can use a bit of clay and rebake, use E6000 or jewelry glue, even a gluestick for temporary (one-time) fix. <br />
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Feel free to send me close-up photos and ask for advice in fixing problems in your mold.<br />
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It may be that you like it just fine-- after all, this is hand-made art, so as long as the casting comes out, you might not want to do anything else to it - and often practice in filling the mold is the best way to get a sharper casting.<br />
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Remember, I'd be happy to come <a href="http://letterdesignstudio.com/classes/castingClass.html">teach</a> you in person, we'd do several small projects to "get the hang of it" and learn various techniques, then prepare designs and do a larger, individualized project. joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-89841307428738398562016-09-05T12:58:00.001-07:002016-09-05T12:58:39.329-07:00Making a Carol DuBosch Pen Burrito<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPkMyhgG7N8xfUlyQYEQussdxeayCFvnDl0aai2XjDZWSKruQ_OpK-EMHuRw9QDsGl33tDSoWdz5DqEN4cNDQYhRJc80msmQ3k21sH1z09k2tuZ5H6_xMGhJroI8mWsgwbgFxV7_HSv8gw/s1600/burrito3+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPkMyhgG7N8xfUlyQYEQussdxeayCFvnDl0aai2XjDZWSKruQ_OpK-EMHuRw9QDsGl33tDSoWdz5DqEN4cNDQYhRJc80msmQ3k21sH1z09k2tuZ5H6_xMGhJroI8mWsgwbgFxV7_HSv8gw/s320/burrito3+-+Copy.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Last Summer I attended the international calligraphy conference "A Show of Hands" in North Carolina, where I was privileged to learn more about making and using a folded pen from <a href="http://www.caroldubosch.com/">Carol DuBosch</a>. She had envisioned and then created a "pen burrito" filled with her collection of folded pens. I immediately knew I needed one too! In case anyone else is interested, she graciously gave permission for me to share the simple process.</div>
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I started out without referring to my notes, so I bought more plastic than I needed. The Joann's where I purchased it had 50" width so I only needed 20" and that would make two if you make them 25" wide (25 pockets). You want it to be a medium weight - not thin but not too stiff. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQf4tfkpxwIbX1J3_d8mc1ovaNo3Pq_ZPG_fMRfoUd75VLqyxm_igVXWYzUPDaPcYO2TK7j4abG64OSxu7Gy4AuS60BrXjHdevzwbi6fnxz2akCkZvUiLr-cqeIJnvB3JSx67IpcqZE1EJ/s1600/burrito1+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQf4tfkpxwIbX1J3_d8mc1ovaNo3Pq_ZPG_fMRfoUd75VLqyxm_igVXWYzUPDaPcYO2TK7j4abG64OSxu7Gy4AuS60BrXjHdevzwbi6fnxz2akCkZvUiLr-cqeIJnvB3JSx67IpcqZE1EJ/s320/burrito1+-+Copy.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here's what mine looked like. If you want about 30 pockets, use a piece 30" by 20", folding the long edge up a little over 4" as shown. I used masking tape to hold things in place. That leaves over 15" which gives you a nice generous flap to fold down over your pens.<br />
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To make it easy to sew pockets fairly even and straight, I used more tape to mark them. I slid the yardstick underneath and put a piece as straight and evenly as I could midway between every other inch. That way I could sew along the edge on both sides for pockets about 1". You could make them bigger if you want to stuff in multiples or fat pens. <br />
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By letting the tape go over the edge, it helped hold the plastic in place as well. I chose some fun multi-colored thread I had in my book-binding stash and sewed with a fairly large stitch (4.5), reversing the beginning and end for security.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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That's really all there is to it. trim threads, slide in pens (they might be a bit fussy to get in the first time, as the plastic likes to stick to itself but it will get used to the new shape), fold down the top flap, roll it up! Your pens travel safely, are easy to see and select. You could adjust to any size - if you make one too big, just take scissors to it.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'm really looking forward to Carol teaching at <a href="http://letterworks.org/">LetterWorks</a> next summer in Utah! Hope to see you there.</div>
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<br />joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-14857993913395036662015-01-20T12:27:00.001-08:002015-01-20T12:27:17.656-08:00My first ever podcast <br />
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A few days ago I did an audio interview with Mormon Artist for podcast. <a href="http://mormonartist.net/podcast/episode-7-joan-layton-merrell/">http://mormonartist.net/podcast/episode-7-joan-layton-merrell/</a><br />
I rambled a bit more than ideal and didn't really answer everything, but at least nothing seems too embarrassing! It was a fun experience and if I could go through and rewrite it all, it would be pretty good.<br />
The transcript version includes images of the art discussed so if you are interested you might wan to read or to scroll down the transcript as you listen.<br />
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I'll update this with some pictures when I'm home on the computer.<br />
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<br />joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-20453909329375975382014-07-29T08:41:00.002-07:002018-11-25T17:09:32.770-08:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Fnb9WMFlw6ZRfLlAYfZJQALhsxeVnYRioAEIczGBzCt8iGyb0lapmvmNwJ-DXQIQVOILi79qst182DaD5aYNMPsU7g477d-lU4ivmEXsBJ5Jvqme5sgWkng2ELf4_JvEnI8G9ZQz_8oA/s1600/iAmTheLight2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Fnb9WMFlw6ZRfLlAYfZJQALhsxeVnYRioAEIczGBzCt8iGyb0lapmvmNwJ-DXQIQVOILi79qst182DaD5aYNMPsU7g477d-lU4ivmEXsBJ5Jvqme5sgWkng2ELf4_JvEnI8G9ZQz_8oA/s1600/iAmTheLight2.JPG" height="320" width="155" /></a>Canvas</div>
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<br />joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-63814960082171981542013-06-21T13:05:00.001-07:002013-06-21T13:06:31.519-07:00keeping busy<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've gotten some good practice at basic lettering lately doing certificates and a resolution for Wash U in St. Louis. Plus a bit of work for John Burroughs School. I had a bit of a time-crunch and felt really good about getting all of these done on time!<br />
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I had to do some experimenting with papers and gouache, had to more or less match the previous person's lettering and colors, plus the crest, and be able to use the light table - and then had to squeeze in all that info on the signature lines for some of them! Thank goodness for magnifying reading glasses.<br />
Doing the crest was tricky, thank you Patricia for hints.<br />
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The resolution required a watercolor of Brookings Hall which made me nervous, but I think it turned out OK, partly due to working on oil painting not so long ago with local artist and teacher Renee Nilges.<br />
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And then over 300 words of text - but apparently some years it has been up to 850!<br />
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Makes the Burroughs chair certificates seem pretty simple.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgb1nQZFxPGAZR4g8bHd03SLm2JaPNNaHdSfKOyo-7Z3cOTqauf-9nvOSI0002ei6gd70Eqx58A98fs7EhIKh1xkQjrr9J3d7V1z0tv2tEEwtueNsxmpFk2F1zDhMfr2fL-jsTlZwafAMo/s1600/sf+burroughs+chair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgb1nQZFxPGAZR4g8bHd03SLm2JaPNNaHdSfKOyo-7Z3cOTqauf-9nvOSI0002ei6gd70Eqx58A98fs7EhIKh1xkQjrr9J3d7V1z0tv2tEEwtueNsxmpFk2F1zDhMfr2fL-jsTlZwafAMo/s320/sf+burroughs+chair.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I had a learning curve on the shipping - its the packaging that costs most, but UPS does a great job of getting things to St. Louis overnight with regular ground shipping.. And I recommend BareWalls framing in St. Genevieve! They pick-up and deliver in St. Louis and make everything smooth and easy.joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-87261794360446258632013-03-31T16:19:00.001-07:002013-08-09T07:58:14.726-07:00Free Easter Gift<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj06zB5pfg4AxJHM9egc6uhPlix5cPXUnxPjKKseFFWkzQ13I4f5oDkxFHYaOnQ5OkG27kjJbqFm8YSFuFKPKmMrxGmUE4KtfcsEtxOn905BJQTV3RCFBVX0LZoxi1SbgqQfX3jqDZ1jhyphenhyphenZ/s1600/sf+shepherd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj06zB5pfg4AxJHM9egc6uhPlix5cPXUnxPjKKseFFWkzQ13I4f5oDkxFHYaOnQ5OkG27kjJbqFm8YSFuFKPKmMrxGmUE4KtfcsEtxOn905BJQTV3RCFBVX0LZoxi1SbgqQfX3jqDZ1jhyphenhyphenZ/s320/sf+shepherd.jpg" width="234" /></a></div>
I'm finding DropBox is not very intuitive, but this should link (below) to high-res files you can use to print this yourself for your own home use or gifts NO COMMERCIAL USE PERMITTED this is copyrighted art. If you take it on a thumbdrive to a photo or copier shop, have them make sure it is printing from the high-res file and not the small one that it converts to if they look at it in photoshop - what looks good on a screen if far from what's needed for a good print.. There are two files, the bigger one is best if you print big, it should work fine up to 12x18", which is the size our UPS store can do on nice heavy photo paper. Looks great at 8 1/2 x 11. Please consider making sure to add credit to my website or link to the blog or my facebook page (LetterDesignStudio) if you share.<br />
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You can print this out as permission to print for your own use hereby given by the artist, Joan L. Merrell, March 31, 2012.</h3>
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if you have trouble getting to the file, e-mail me through the website home "contact me" and I will send you a link directly from DropBox.<br />
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https://www.dropbox.com/sh/n9impqw0fmyk5gq/7YL4ahJcTxjoanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-50168991746497598652013-03-07T12:13:00.004-08:002013-03-07T12:13:51.736-08:00Class Starts Next Week<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuNMyjKgqBWB2tfjX4hm54biH525nlC51LILQpKPwhD1w1vZaND6aMkH5t2grhpTlut8Ca6UfPwaA-GwsMTECuBZnmmexqs_LfSjBs_SERX9hNPC2rjrZzrKyLgj9TBfX8unDPBoiP7-_c/s1600/sf+circle+detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuNMyjKgqBWB2tfjX4hm54biH525nlC51LILQpKPwhD1w1vZaND6aMkH5t2grhpTlut8Ca6UfPwaA-GwsMTECuBZnmmexqs_LfSjBs_SERX9hNPC2rjrZzrKyLgj9TBfX8unDPBoiP7-_c/s320/sf+circle+detail.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Anyone interested in learning or just trying out calligraphy, there is a 6-week class starting at Capital Arts in Jefferson City next Thursday (6:30-8:30). It's a lot of fun, and kind of cool to do something that is largely a "lost art", we'll do some fun little projects along the way.<br />
You can register for the class by calling <a href="tel:%28573%29%20635-8355" target="_blank" value="+15736358355">(573) 635-8355</a> or by emailing <a href="mailto:artsadmin@capitalarts.org" target="_blank">artsadmin@capitalarts.org</a>. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuSv5t8l98-D31jFhAJ8Cq82EU4AXxlmY4oxKd8c75itcxHgeYooAHpyyUJ6mdeq8rSJOH3IUMqoQNLIJe9YQQHZ_w-1M1bSaDco_gXSGTkkWLQzTJVlkfROfVrS8R53unOYFFh6ERmaYj/s1600/hail+and+hearts+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuSv5t8l98-D31jFhAJ8Cq82EU4AXxlmY4oxKd8c75itcxHgeYooAHpyyUJ6mdeq8rSJOH3IUMqoQNLIJe9YQQHZ_w-1M1bSaDco_gXSGTkkWLQzTJVlkfROfVrS8R53unOYFFh6ERmaYj/s320/hail+and+hearts+002.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Ages 14 and up are welcome, no experience necessary, inexpensive supplies and information on other options available the first night. Feel free to spread the word!joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-18347053763505989162013-02-14T17:29:00.002-08:002013-08-09T07:57:59.080-07:00Free Valentine's Gift Art Print<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-kIV_qLyRKVmpwnS1_wz3Hd5rbfeBPgD_4pgy6btVvZbheGExTonivr-2ugnN-GyyrhZKsVlZ-elKm_wier5KpY9ndpjYVk9_OCJMPllEogWu1JookiYoadV31RITSii0qSkxX2j921cN/s1600/Merrell+%EF%80%A0Book+of+Mormon+sf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-kIV_qLyRKVmpwnS1_wz3Hd5rbfeBPgD_4pgy6btVvZbheGExTonivr-2ugnN-GyyrhZKsVlZ-elKm_wier5KpY9ndpjYVk9_OCJMPllEogWu1JookiYoadV31RITSii0qSkxX2j921cN/s640/Merrell+%EF%80%A0Book+of+Mormon+sf.jpg" width="464" /></a></div>
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Below you will find a link to drop box folder that includes files for a professional photograph and a hi-res scan, either of which can be used to print an art-quality print up to poster size. Permission is hereby given for anyone to use this to make prints for family, home, church or other use that is non-commercial. You may try your own color printer, or put the file on a thumb drive and take it to a color copier or a photo printshop. It fits well on an 8 1/2 x 11 paper and I hear that Costco will do poster prints for only $6. In Jefferson City, you can get inexpensive 11x17 color copies at the UPS store near Schnucks.<br />
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OK, an added warning for do-it-yourselfers: if you open an image in a viewer or even photoshop, it usually opens at just 72 dpi, which is plenty for viewing on a screen but will not print up nicely. You might want to be careful that when you save the file it is the whole thing, and if you go to a print/copy shop, you can ask them to make sure it is printing at 300 dpi. This might mean they take it back into photoshop and increase the resolution. In Jefferson City they are really helpful at the UPS store by Schnucks and will make sure it is top quality, and you can use heavy photo paper there if you want it extra nice. Even if you take it directly to a photo place like Walgreens or Costco, make sure you find out if you have the file at top quality uless you are printing it fairly small.<br />
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/slz7wc73w3doleh/Merrell%20%EF%80%A0Book%20of%20Mormon%EF%80%A0.jpg?n=145153546<br />
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/13a315t74fafusk/Book%20of%20Mormon%20big.psd?n=145153546<br />
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The jpg should be good enough for most any purpose, the second (huge) file is a scan for printing really large.<br />
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<b><i>Feel free to print these for those you home or visit teach, for your own home, for anyone you feel could use it. BUT no permission is given for any commercial use, only free gifts.</i></b><br />
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(If you think it's odd that I picked a quote about the Book of Mormon, here's a link to getting you a free copy in case you are curious just what's its about. <a href="http://mormon.org/free-book-of-mormon">http://mormon.org/free-book-of-mormon</a>)<br />
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If you have any trouble getting the file, e-mail me through the website home "contact me" and I will send you a link directly.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Please feel free to pass this along, spread it around, share anywhere you like!</b></span>joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-70923043940226563362012-11-06T18:58:00.000-08:002012-11-06T18:58:26.233-08:00Family Trees<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeKHCRpiFaXmm8N-Tiv14_ZwjxudWR9DtTXN6UMz6PqOyryn2WWbHYg-sJxa5jZAKCEZxncmWe-cUKbJhipuGJdRvP_MN24Uvv4TUxrSfeZ6LDJiv-o_P3U2qe5wPwKaqCijeCrVroBj1M/s1600/family+tree+sf2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="515" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeKHCRpiFaXmm8N-Tiv14_ZwjxudWR9DtTXN6UMz6PqOyryn2WWbHYg-sJxa5jZAKCEZxncmWe-cUKbJhipuGJdRvP_MN24Uvv4TUxrSfeZ6LDJiv-o_P3U2qe5wPwKaqCijeCrVroBj1M/s640/family+tree+sf2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Family Tree in calligraphy by Joan Merrell in Jefferson City MO, circa 1999?</td></tr>
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One of the first large jobs I ever did on commission was a family tree. The client had an old xerox that was about three pages taped together lengthwise and written out with quite a few mistakes due the the transcriber not understanding the original German. <br />
I had a bit of difficulty coming up with a nice layout. Many times I wished I could take a few children and move them from one family to another to balance things out. Fortunately the client didn't have a deadline, as I found that after working on it for a while I would have to give up and put it aside, sometimes for a couple of months. Eventually I did work out something I liked, using lettering appropriate for the German. I was lucky to have a husband who knows some German and was able to help with correcting some of the text.<br />
I used walnut ink on Nidegen paper.<br />
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A few years later, I was asked to fill in a Martha Stewart family tree. This was more nerve-wracking, as I wasn't sure I could correct anything and I had to fit some long names in some tiny spaces. I thought I had really messed up until I realized that one section was repeated because there were common ancestors.<br />
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The most recent family tree job was filling out a Fraktur print, which included a little creative correcting of the form to fit in some large families.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-3zPOl6-WJzJ1qkuYzFJEGwKkB0yuuXwMkWfJlo_Y3b-yExwgpcdReCZuCJ_vgN4F3DL7GWS6sHhe5oArVAWxnnjYF-PHtgee-ttymm94nJtipF26zR6VHdtlnmpR3GEdpMKCTA_DwGAe/s1600/tree+sf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-3zPOl6-WJzJ1qkuYzFJEGwKkB0yuuXwMkWfJlo_Y3b-yExwgpcdReCZuCJ_vgN4F3DL7GWS6sHhe5oArVAWxnnjYF-PHtgee-ttymm94nJtipF26zR6VHdtlnmpR3GEdpMKCTA_DwGAe/s320/tree+sf.jpg" width="273" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">detail of purchased family tree print from client with names filled in</td></tr>
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I've tried designing a large papercast tree where family members can have names on paper leaves that fit indentations in the casting, but then I realized that ancestors are more roots than leaves, which put the whole thing on the back burner.joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-77969973412031002182012-11-01T18:12:00.004-07:002012-11-01T18:19:11.092-07:00Paper Cast Certificate of Appreciation<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRRowb85ELKIk36NocrBq9GCQqTlOyekNi4Ab-Uc-1_UZG2ZRdfZBVdjuSZNEW64GHCGT3Sz1oWHoNZPOn-6ULed91TQOVZs0m6zVX-jCsdRc1PAd6OnCAT_SBPw29IjJBS5M5IuV6fZYg/s1600/sf+MHA3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRRowb85ELKIk36NocrBq9GCQqTlOyekNi4Ab-Uc-1_UZG2ZRdfZBVdjuSZNEW64GHCGT3Sz1oWHoNZPOn-6ULed91TQOVZs0m6zVX-jCsdRc1PAd6OnCAT_SBPw29IjJBS5M5IuV6fZYg/s640/sf+MHA3.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cast paper certificate, hand done in a mold carved by the lettering artist in polymer clay</td></tr>
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Recently I completed three more castings for the Missouri Hospital Association. A few years ago they requested some form of certificate that could be reproduced and have the names and dates filled in as necessary. Making a calligraphic <a href="http://letterdesignstudio.blogspot.com/2012/05/cutting-your-paper-casting-mold-backing.html">papercasting mold</a> gave them something really unique that their retirees have enjoyed receiving. Some day I'll have to see if I can go back and figure out how many I have done altogether.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZrJZ1ixEpBXZF2p_YkyhOILiB3nyCXNYeGPjXLw3LJEFRKrUJpAH5pMuuPu567JvOqNZNGHSNQiVMBw3KsW4pIDOXrr09fcF636xA-v4zFIL_Z9sh1hhKMyMHIi-s-Lm1VFLJFm7zjG2u/s1600/sf+MHA2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZrJZ1ixEpBXZF2p_YkyhOILiB3nyCXNYeGPjXLw3LJEFRKrUJpAH5pMuuPu567JvOqNZNGHSNQiVMBw3KsW4pIDOXrr09fcF636xA-v4zFIL_Z9sh1hhKMyMHIi-s-Lm1VFLJFm7zjG2u/s400/sf+MHA2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">this calligraphic papercasting shows raised lettering as well as opposite "indented" letters) cast with cotton linters in a polymer clay mold</td></tr>
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I usually don't write on a cast surface, it is not friendly to writing. I have not yet figured out a good way to be able to write with pen and ink, so I have to use a pointed brush to fill in letters transferred on from pen-designed rough drafts, using acrylic ink after spraying with fixative to help seal. I do enjoy making each name different, using whatever style seems to work well for the length of the name in the available space, as well as looking good with the particular combination of letters. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TJu9hInCHK__VW_l3YxbutqjZQuoiOIgL2UfXTp-bZF7fm4BsuhvJVgESFPAEcRRjgfSSODBxNC-d50w7_icenWqOeLRzcT2fafrU-c1jz_Z3fHxqLrCKNhCyEeD3yF67U0GiD4W4wJc/s1600/sf+MHA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TJu9hInCHK__VW_l3YxbutqjZQuoiOIgL2UfXTp-bZF7fm4BsuhvJVgESFPAEcRRjgfSSODBxNC-d50w7_icenWqOeLRzcT2fafrU-c1jz_Z3fHxqLrCKNhCyEeD3yF67U0GiD4W4wJc/s400/sf+MHA.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">learn papercasting through tutorials on this blog</td></tr>
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So far the mold has lasted quite well, though occasionally I have to repair small bits. It gets tricky when there are extra words and dates because they have to be quite small, but I have gotten plenty of experience making the castings and now they always come out quite crisp. I keep my eye out for various decorative textured papers or mats for mounting them on, even though it doesn't show very much. I tired other colors but the gold works well - including the way it shows up differently if different light similar to the way the cast letters show up according the available light.<br />
So, if you want one, just get onto the board of trustees.................... or learn to make your own castings through the tutorials on this blog :) or through <a href="http://letterdesignstudio.com/classes/teachingPolicies.html">workshops</a> for your group or guild.<br />
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<br />joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-6135218104774899342012-10-02T10:44:00.000-07:002012-10-02T10:44:23.654-07:00Two Versions of a FavoriteSome of you are familiar with a print I did a few years ago that started out as a Mother's Day gift for women at our local church (giclee prints now for sale on <a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/LetterDesignStudio">Etsy</a>, by the way:)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzeRH1fXKluLLol5hVlyeF9kV4FFqKqdB09Ilef3IJBfD22fA2Zk5tmHtOAGAgBefLGHDhdmdn6Ps5nTTXnibB7m_Gfq-TvR11npHjpltSmMCY4DsPTCuiqRRtrLY-UcXHi2XySYyXpawC/s1600/sf+tiny.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzeRH1fXKluLLol5hVlyeF9kV4FFqKqdB09Ilef3IJBfD22fA2Zk5tmHtOAGAgBefLGHDhdmdn6Ps5nTTXnibB7m_Gfq-TvR11npHjpltSmMCY4DsPTCuiqRRtrLY-UcXHi2XySYyXpawC/s320/sf+tiny.jpg" width="205" /></a></div>
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Some time later, I had a commission to do the same quote in two parts, so they could go on either side of a family photo, and to adapt it to the taste and decor of the client. I spent a lot of time trying different versions because the client is a good friend and I really wanted it to be "right". It's an interesting challenge to make things balance when the quote doesn't divide right in half and the words worth emphasizing are not evenly distributed either. Pretty sure I'm not the first calligrapher to want to rewrite something to better fit - the first family tree I did I really, really wanted to move a few kids to another family.<br />
But I think it was successful in the end.<br />
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You can see that some things are similar, like using capitals for emphasis and contrast, and fairly clean and simple letters. Both are written out in gouache on backgrounds done with <a href="http://letterdesignstudio.blogspot.com/search/label/resist">"saran wrap" technique </a>on watercolor paper. (Arches 90 lb. hot press)joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-71812155889866929392012-08-11T14:06:00.000-07:002012-08-11T14:06:13.337-07:00Wedding Painting<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I recently was asked to take a painting done by <a href="http://www.zhibit.org/robinlee">Robin Lee</a> and write out a couple's wedding vows. They had been intrigued by the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ketubah">Ketubah</a> tradition and wanted something similar that could be signed during the ceremony. Since they liked Robin's work, they commissioned a painting from her that was then sent to me to write on. I've written on canvas with metal pens before but not on surfaces done by others, so I had to do a little research to make sure it would work. I ended up spraying lightly with a fixative to give the acrylic paint surface a bit of "grab" and then used acrylic gouache so I could have more control over flow. It was still a little erratic but did OK. I worked out a style that seemed to fit the painting style and could be done at a size to fit the wording (it is a the shorter of two versions sent me, fitting in more just wasn't going to work)<br />
You see the signatures added on Robin's<a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Robin-Lee/136799629728785"> facebook page</a><br />
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And here's a closer look at the lettering, done with a clipped EF66 nib and acrylic gouache with a little acrylic black ink added to get it dark enough since I usually only have red, yellow and blue in acrylic gouache. Of course, to ensure the fairly "flush right" margin I had to do some extra layout and tracing work.<br /><br />
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I had to varnish it since the painter kindly didn't make me write over varnish, and since the gouache didn't adhere as tightly as painting acrylic paint on, I used a conservation quality spray varnish to make sure not to disturb the lettering while adding protection. It did make me realize that some of my previous canvas work probably should not have gone out of here without a protective coat! <br />
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Here's an <a href="http://www.jewishbride.com/store/more_ketubahjerusalem.html">example of a Ketubah </a>by a calligrapher I know, and a <a href="http://www.ketubahworks.com/ketubah.php">gallery-full by another </a>. I have done a wedding certificate or two where all the guests sign it, such as for Quaker weddings.joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-52244657905524503882012-08-01T10:40:00.001-07:002020-04-23T16:55:41.002-07:008: Critique Tutorials for PaperCasting<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Anyone who is trying out the process, <i>please</i> let me know any problems or confusion so I can edit and improve the tutorials. Send to joan.merrell@gmail.com<br />
Also, if you send photos and descriptions of problems with test castings, I could use them in the "how to fix your molds" segment upcoming :)<br />
<br />joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-30802073908143223232012-07-21T14:53:00.000-07:002020-04-23T16:54:43.946-07:00STEP 6: Making your PaperCasting<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Okay, those of you who have stuck with it to this point should have:<br />
-<a href="http://letterdesignstudio.blogspot.com/2012/06/choosing-or-adapting-designs-for-paper.html">planned your design</a> (for your first try it could be something very small and simple)<br />
-<a href="http://letterdesignstudio.blogspot.com/2012/01/preparing-polymer-clay-for-casting.html">conditioned and rolled your clay</a><a href="http://letterdesignstudio.blogspot.com/2012/01/preparing-polymer-clay-for-casting.html"></a> (if your design is not small, there's also a post on <a href="http://letterdesignstudio.blogspot.com/2012/02/joining-strips-of-polymer-clay-for.html">joining strips of clay</a>)<br />
-<a href="http://letterdesignstudio.blogspot.com/2012/02/transferring-your-design-to-polymer.html">transferred the design onto the clay</a><br />
-<a href="http://letterdesignstudio.blogspot.com/2012/05/cutting-your-paper-casting-mold-backing.html">cut, backed, and baked your mold</a><br />
(if not, click on the links and go for it!)<br />
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Hooray! you are ready to make your test casting. There's a lot of detail here for those who really want a crisp, top-quality casting - you can just plop in some pulp and sponge the water out and see how it turns out if you aren't picky or want a rough look - but you won't be able to tell what defects you might have in the mold.<br />
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First you make some pulp. You will need a blender, a strainer, plastic tubs/bowls, cotton linter or paper, methycellulose optional. For filling your mold you will need flat toothpicks, clean flat sponge, thin terrycloth towel.This will not hurt your blender nor make it toxic. (Rinse or wash new sponges - sometimes the color bleeds)<br />
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I like to use cotton <a href="http://www.twinrockerhandmadepaper.com/fiberdes.html">linters from Twinrocker</a> but you can use other cotton linter, or cheap watercolor paper from a pad from the crafts store, or good paper scraps from your friendly print- or book-maker --- or just about any paper in a pinch but I really think you will be happier with something nice, like a good pure cotton. You will get good detail and no discoloration over time. You won't get a crisp result with paper towels, toilet paper, etc. I'd use copy paper quality at least.<br />
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Your first casting is your test casting to see how the mold works, so using pure white will make that easier - it helps you see detail.<br />
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Using additives is optional but I learned that I get the best results with a little<a href="http://www.twinrockerhandmadepaper.com/showprod.php?dept=Additives-Colorants&grp=Additives&prod=Methylcellulose"> methycellulose</a> to help all elements of the casting adhere better. You must add it while the water is moving, using the hole in the lid of the blender. It takes less than half of a 1/4 tsp. measure for one blenderful of water. Some papermakers add a little PVA (white glue - teaspoon per blenderful maybe)<br />
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If you use sheets of cotton linter, you will need a piece a little larger than your casting mold. Don't worry about making too much as it's easy to save for another time.<br />
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Fill the blender with water, start it blending and gradually pour in a small amount of methycellulose if you have it. While it blends, put the lid on the methylcellulose jar and then put center plug back in the lid of the blender, and by then it will have blended enough.<br />
Tear up the linter sheet into pieces about 1" and drop in. It takes a little experience to tell how much - probably not over about 6x7 inches total. If you are using paper instead of linter, it helps to let it soak a while. Blend until you feel it is pretty evenly soupy - maybe a minute. Pour into a strainer over a bowl or plastic container and shake around a bit until some of the water is out and it's a very wet lump. Dump into another container. You can put the water back in the blender and add more linter and blend again.<br />
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Set your mold in front of you, have some flat toothpicks (not round pointy ones), a clean flat sponge, and a fairly thin terry towel handy. Unless there are no narrow or deep parts to your mold, you will probably have to "toothpick" it to ensure a really crisp casting. This is done by taking a small blob of pulp and setting it near the part you are working on, teasing a little bit into a shape similar to the hole and putting it in. You can use fingernails for really tight bits, but mostly the toothpick works well to tamp it down in. Make sure you get pulp into all the corners and don't feel the hard clay of the mold when you push down with the toothpick. It takes a little practice but you can tell by feel and sometimes by look whether you have enough pulp in. You don't want it hard, just somewhat firm with no holes where the clay is not well covered. If your backing is colored, you shouldn't see the color through the pulp. Note: We are still filling only the holes or depressions in your mold. Sponge off excess water and push pulp all down in.<br />
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When you feel you have gotten all the depressions filled and sponged off to check, you will cover the whole mold with blobs of pulp. After initial "patting" down to make the blobs spread to cover it all, you should have it more than 1/4 inch thick all over.<br />
You will need to gently slap it with the flat of your hand - you should hear "slap" and see some water flying. Think patting someone's cheek. Keep pushing it back in toward the middle from around the edges so it is within your borderlines or near your raised or lowered edging. You should slap it for some time until it becomes a cohesive sheet - you will tell a difference. Turn it so you are slapping from different directions. This takes a couple of minutes or so. If it just won't smooth out, you have gotten it too dry. All pulp put into or on the mold should be pretty wet. You should need to sponge up puddles underneath the mold now and then.<br />
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When you think it is smooth and cohesive, make sure it is all in close or within the edge you want, then make the "deckle" by using your fingertips to tap the outer edge until it is very thin, you should see the clay through it. If you see clay anywhere else though, add more wet pulp.<br />
Check the evenness of your edges and then start sponging water out. Lay the sponge down and gently press, allow to come back up and suck out water. Squeeze it out into your container and move to a new spot. Now is the time your deckle "sets" so check it closely -- if you need to add pulp, make it very wet and pat into place. You can gently pull back if the pulp is too close or going off the edge.<br />
When you are happy with your edge, continue sponging until you can't get much of any water out any more.<br />
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Now you "towel". Lay your towel on top of the pulp and press with fairly flat fingers all over your mold. Lift up, move to a dry part of towel and do it again.Now turn the mold, move the towel, and press more. Keep towel-pressing until it's hardly damp. You should be feeling depressions in the mold and see some of them and have a firm surface. If your fingers aren't tired you probably haven't done enough, especially if the mold is large. <br />
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If you are anxious to see it, lean the mold near moving air from a vent. I usually keep a stiff cardboard (or a tile) underneath as the clay will sag. A small fan is OK but often the edges will dry too fast and start to warp - you can put weight on the corners to help flatten while the rest dries. Do not try to take out your casting until it is quite thoroughly dry or the letters may stay in while the backing comes off!. I always allow at least overnight to dry unless there's a good reason to speed things up.<br />
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To remove the casting use something like a butterknife or letter opener to slip under the edges and work your way around and around, gently working it up.If it seems to stick, take your time, keep oging aroudn coaxing gently.. If bits do stay in the mold you can get them out with a pin and glue on with with PVA.<br />
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Other problems will be addressed in "Fixing and Refining Your Mold" to follow.<br />
Feel free to send questions!<br />
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This is much easier to demo than to write about, you can get personal help and learn many variations on these basic techniques by having a <a href="http://letterdesignstudio.com/classes/teachingPolicies.html">workshop</a> in your area.<br />
Or, stay tuned for information about online classes where we will go step by step through several projects with feedback - not as fun as live workshops but it won't matter where you are, and there will be a "group" to experience it with.<br />
<br />joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-78894155211483897532012-07-16T14:32:00.000-07:002012-07-16T14:32:13.878-07:00an Anniversary Book<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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For my parents' 60th anniversary we gathered a few months early - the only time all their children me and my siblings) were available to be in the same place at the same time. So we thought it would be great to surprise them with a gift on the actual day. But then we missed it because I didn't really know the right date!<br />
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At any rate, our project was successful otherwise.<br />
At our gathering (with the stealthy help of two nephews) I gave each of the seven siblings an unsewn signature with instructions to do whatever they wanted on the pages - that would be celebratory and have something about their family. We ended up with photos, notes, drawings, quite a variety. Another signature included a list of all the family members in order of birth (or marriage into the family)<br />
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One brother is a woodcarver and he made a wonderful box for the book to go in.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj1U3oIiNPvX8dMQUKZncEWpxgg3hosP7u8W4qGXtJBhVHHpLrVEn4UXFnuytpof2rW3Ijxd04elB5_edPGRZy4EKTJ7HFQ_dh52w_GD1a1-YdhzimCNH2793II4iIMbfMWE9JhxWA3zgV/s1600/sf+book1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj1U3oIiNPvX8dMQUKZncEWpxgg3hosP7u8W4qGXtJBhVHHpLrVEn4UXFnuytpof2rW3Ijxd04elB5_edPGRZy4EKTJ7HFQ_dh52w_GD1a1-YdhzimCNH2793II4iIMbfMWE9JhxWA3zgV/s320/sf+book1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I used a binding method that is entirely undo-able if ever needed, but more importantly, that allows for any thickness of pages and will lie flat for easy viewing. (Learned at a workshop at the <a href="http://stlcalligraphyguild.org/">St. Louis Calligraphy Guild </a>- I believe it was by <a href="http://www.amazon.ca/bookbinding-handbooks-manuals-etc-Books/s?ie=UTF8&keywords=Bookbinding%20-%20Handbooks%5Cc%20manuals%5Cc%20etc.&rh=n%3A916520%2Ck%3ABookbinding%20-%20Handbooks%5Cc%20manuals%5Cc%20etc.%2Cp_lbr_books_authors_browse-bin%3AMichael%20Jacobs&page=1">Micheal Jacobs</a>). My father is a geographer and made several trips to Guatemala so it was appropriate to use a map for the cover. Here's the title page- a piece of Guatemalan cloth wrapped the book inside the box.<br />
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<br />joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-22957326701505863612012-07-11T14:34:00.000-07:002012-07-11T14:34:02.000-07:00experimenting with oil paint and calligraphy<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnvpY5sAccU4tuLMGxH1e_x45G7SNEhqxlm0s89nuNmhYDDrf0RLbGbWLg_gWyHCrpbaMIDqUrsRg6Vyxt4rt2owoYlAWs0SpVHdMtV_HDtP4ACZQ11dCMcX3hdE-HUl9xw-6YZS3doii_/s1600/blog+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnvpY5sAccU4tuLMGxH1e_x45G7SNEhqxlm0s89nuNmhYDDrf0RLbGbWLg_gWyHCrpbaMIDqUrsRg6Vyxt4rt2owoYlAWs0SpVHdMtV_HDtP4ACZQ11dCMcX3hdE-HUl9xw-6YZS3doii_/s320/blog+001.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">lettering in and on water-soluble oil paint with venice turp glaze, canvas is 18x24 inches</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">this was the blocked-in color, maybe I like it better than the finished piece.</td></tr>
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While I like the final result of my first try with oils, the lettering is not very good as the surface was not pleasant to work on nor the paint to control. I had originally wanted to try on a panel but didn't have one when I was ready to start.. So next I decided to try that (a wood panel) with acrylic gouache for the first layer and writing and use oil glazes over it. I figure since you can put oil paint over acrylic that should work, and allow the richness and enamel-like finish I was interested in.<br />
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So I got some small - just 6x8 inch - panels for experimenting. I coated this one with water absorbent ground and did a background painting with diluted acrylic guoache<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilsL-yBkAN-4DSBET7logvUXLZM6-mbf160D95aKQMZ1VG0Sz5LWUkRHL8GOWbupi29tKoPNfnwlh2swMr-GpxaW5U433kj39wBbqk-QUBOj5G6UP3E3CuF3qdAuLHQceiBeQfZbjcywes/s1600/sf+panel+background.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilsL-yBkAN-4DSBET7logvUXLZM6-mbf160D95aKQMZ1VG0Sz5LWUkRHL8GOWbupi29tKoPNfnwlh2swMr-GpxaW5U433kj39wBbqk-QUBOj5G6UP3E3CuF3qdAuLHQceiBeQfZbjcywes/s320/sf+panel+background.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I really liked it, almost didn't write on it. Then I wrote with acrylic gouache and metal pen - it worked pretty well although occasionally the pen actually dug into the soft ground. It was certainly easier to work with than the water-soluble oil on primed canvas, even though I tried a variety of mediums, etc.<br />
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Then I coated it with the venice turp oil glaze and did some more painting into it (with the oils) to add some other color and help the words be a little more "under the surface". It doesn't show up in the photos much differently unless I get where the gloss gets in the way of photographing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVSyo0EBdinW8bomWCt47A7wEEB0RtwoEcIb6fSkqFfBBDTIkeFT9F-1fBwNFeF8zAiB_APP4-O8UJbXal8nZZwxV1_dyavvFVY_yPLWa5AFL4Bup62Sba8IQ7IEjnQkjjg-TuSvYZcB0Y/s1600/sf+water3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVSyo0EBdinW8bomWCt47A7wEEB0RtwoEcIb6fSkqFfBBDTIkeFT9F-1fBwNFeF8zAiB_APP4-O8UJbXal8nZZwxV1_dyavvFVY_yPLWa5AFL4Bup62Sba8IQ7IEjnQkjjg-TuSvYZcB0Y/s400/sf+water3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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At any rate, I don't know if the oil has enough barrier from the ground with the thin acrylic layer or if it will matter in the long run, but at least the basics worked. I have two more small panels and plan to continue experimenting and learning about the possibilities before trying another large piece.<br />
<br />joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-11304575967288782322012-07-04T01:25:00.003-07:002012-07-04T15:07:35.222-07:00Chinese and English Calligraphy (transcribing historical document)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">British document from 1762 saved by Chinese family of calligraphers</td></tr>
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An account of my experience during a visit to Utah in April of 2006:<br />
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My daughter and son-in-law have taken calligraphy classes in college and since he spent two years in Taiwan they also took <span class="il">Chinese</span> calligraphy last year and gave me a couple of lessons at Christmas time.</div>
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So I by pre-arrangment, on my latest visit I ended up going straight from the airport to the last <span class="il">Chinese</span>
Calligraphy class of the semester at Brigham Young University. They
have a fourth or fifth generation calligrapher who has won many awards
in China and other countries who decided to come to the
U.S. when his son came to school in Salt Lake City. His name
is Duanran Fan as translated/americanized in his book or Fan Zhuan Ran
as my son-in-law puts it, being more the proper <span class="il">Chinese</span>
way. No one ever used his name, probably because we wouldn't say it
right! According to the bio in his book he has been a calligrapher for
over 40 years and is the only calligraphy professor in Yunan province.
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He was very gracious, asked what questions I had - of course I
didn't know enough to have any. So he demonstrated quite a bit and then
spent some time explaining how to tell if the calligraphy is good. Very
familiar principles, like keeping symmetrical and good proportions,
having equal white spaces in various parts of the character, having
contrast in the stroke - a bit of narrowing and widening or smooth and
squared on one end and rounder/rougher on the other-
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaZBgNLTmmXpdxM-KWHCZBT8QO1Fwe9704iND9LjZUYvLwWmpjSmTjhp7xObAB-O5un2ziyCqWyG1-tDX8AU1y2E7dGauhhN1HD9psx0MKOuHdC1z1oi4N4miPpdRDr7l_AIKaa4LoACv-/s1600/chinese+characters.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaZBgNLTmmXpdxM-KWHCZBT8QO1Fwe9704iND9LjZUYvLwWmpjSmTjhp7xObAB-O5un2ziyCqWyG1-tDX8AU1y2E7dGauhhN1HD9psx0MKOuHdC1z1oi4N4miPpdRDr7l_AIKaa4LoACv-/s1600/chinese+characters.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">teacher demo</td></tr>
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(One disappointment with the few Oriental calligraphy books I've seen
is that they don't explain the amount of pressure and release or tell
you where it happens - there may be little arrows of direction and such
but often the change of direction is not so much a stroke as a pushing
down of the brush, often through wrist action. Thanks to modern digital
technology I did get a couple of very brief video clips to watch over
and over as I practice -not that I expect to do real oriental work but
to improve on control of the brush can't hurt.)
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg98S2Rkw5YvvTIBh3hYvaeJxJzchXaSYPbxB-Ygh2HYsZf5Qc3EOKc6uFnAgASAArajCWk9SDo-MuAnKXA8g_5BhPdtDaK_U2EZEOPhxetgaJTxNiQy79-Fq_MuSmYHHr5HhLEvgtIxM7d/s1600/chinese+professor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg98S2Rkw5YvvTIBh3hYvaeJxJzchXaSYPbxB-Ygh2HYsZf5Qc3EOKc6uFnAgASAArajCWk9SDo-MuAnKXA8g_5BhPdtDaK_U2EZEOPhxetgaJTxNiQy79-Fq_MuSmYHHr5HhLEvgtIxM7d/s1600/chinese+professor.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fan Zhuan Ran and me at BYU </td></tr>
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He had me demo western lettering a little (pretty rusty) and my son-in-law who
was translating told him a bit about how some of the styles I was showing were from
hundred of years ago - The teacher got very excited and asked when we
could meet with him again.
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He seemed interested in history so I looked for some handouts on
historical alphabets, warmed up a lot to be able to write better, etc. It
turned out that what he wanted was help with an old document handed down
in his family. He had brought it to this country when he came, wanting to find a professor of archaic English, then realized that it wasn't
the language but the lettering that was the problem. So my son-in-law
and I spent about 2 1/2 hours transcribing this document from 1762. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN30px6V0oJJQ3u_iNr8s8HKnMFC2DVH73e9dit9RhXmSNg2Lbm42tuZK3C20SLZZhOw8cQjSvshN1KDQW5UviTy2ZI42KnaeKU3hvcFwW0SArzaChwjInWlshFyMEhkhGb9be_VRRH5zm/s1600/chinese+closeup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN30px6V0oJJQ3u_iNr8s8HKnMFC2DVH73e9dit9RhXmSNg2Lbm42tuZK3C20SLZZhOw8cQjSvshN1KDQW5UviTy2ZI42KnaeKU3hvcFwW0SArzaChwjInWlshFyMEhkhGb9be_VRRH5zm/s320/chinese+closeup.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">detail of document saved by Chinese family for over 200 years</td></tr>
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It is a British legal document - was
fun to see where there were corrections, differences in writing where a blank was
filled in later, etc. It really took a little detective work. The family
had thought it was a letter with possible royal or noble connections
since there is a seal with a crown, a tax stamp, another stamp or seal
of some type, etc. But it is actually very boring, mostly legalese where
they used 50 words when one would do and give multiple descriptions of various properties. There is one interesting bit
where if legally demanded someone has to pay one peppercorn after one
year - for rent I believe. When we got back to my parent's, my dad called a neighbor who
spends half the year in England searching old documents and he came and
gave a little advice on words we were unsure of (said this document was much more
recent than what he works with).<br />
Technology is so amazing, my
son-in-law had taken photos with his digital camera and we were able to
proofread by having the document and the transcription up on the
computer screen together-
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After we transcribed that afternoon, we joined a calligraphy class (western) having
a session in the library's Special Collections so the Chinese professor got to see and in
some cases handle some beautiful old manuscripts, compare ages, and see
some of the similarities with his document - like holes down the side for
making guidelines.
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The very best part though, is that "to give me a more real idea of <span class="il">Chinese</span>
calligraphy" this gentleman wrote out two scrolls for me -on 200
year-old paper that had been "found" in his family's "stuff". The
characters are written over pale wood-block prints from when the paper
was made. He says they are better than the ones in his book (through
pulling strings he and my son-in-law tracked down the last available
copy of his instruction book that has a color section of his work in the
back). He said he has not met many calligraphers over here and wanted to
share with someone who would appreciate it. There are flecks of gold in the paper that he said will turn red over time.<br />
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Sorry I can't get the images to go next to each other - I'd love a good translation of the scrolls if any readers are Chinese :)<br />
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The photo of me and the <span class="il">Chinese</span> teacher (above) is from when we went back to class when he was picking up
final projects, and I got him to write a couple of symbols I wanted to
see - I have to say that I cannot yet appreciate the "artistic style" as
much, but watching him do it is absolutely wondrous! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkBtXQZJcPGzsFl258vyUV-c_jSaQO6eaPRNqOtdjAKUMtIZ-OCzGe3_xw-0BoIIkL3y-slC1oFbldcnzDLJGpzVjPE5-PW3mEVEozpQsqzgmYtWkEmKwAJnHcM4isU452Ty7fV9ZbJ8Rv/s1600/chinese+modern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkBtXQZJcPGzsFl258vyUV-c_jSaQO6eaPRNqOtdjAKUMtIZ-OCzGe3_xw-0BoIIkL3y-slC1oFbldcnzDLJGpzVjPE5-PW3mEVEozpQsqzgmYtWkEmKwAJnHcM4isU452Ty7fV9ZbJ8Rv/s1600/chinese+modern.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">more teacher demo</td></tr>
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I got invited to demo western lettering for the <span class="il">Chinese</span> calligraphy guild if I ever happen to be in China - wish that were likely, but I think I would feel very unqualified anyway.</div>
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Here's a higher-resolution image for those who want to look closely <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNcERLnNfhVD-_cYJTAnfSulwiZNF7rw6N7soZrUAZxoxzeaK51YpQb2oIFUoM45IFjjm2a5NvbVcUF_pn4XqqrBNLfz9gbBaQ65ZaX6sRxxtNwV8a-Vqtug22vHe1r98lXMKGVj97EMTJ/s1600/chinese.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNcERLnNfhVD-_cYJTAnfSulwiZNF7rw6N7soZrUAZxoxzeaK51YpQb2oIFUoM45IFjjm2a5NvbVcUF_pn4XqqrBNLfz9gbBaQ65ZaX6sRxxtNwV8a-Vqtug22vHe1r98lXMKGVj97EMTJ/s640/chinese.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and here's the <a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/1ZZNSuS5sTKk1r-dGhX8UQs78FcNyrk_9en-3VRCIhnxi-rh3SiUpJx5hbwN4/edit">transcript in google docs if anyone is interested.</a><br />
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Hope you enjoyed my bit from the past. I still haven't figured out how to mount or frame the scrolls. He said he hadn't had time to mount them and suggested simply laying them under glass in frames so they are not glued, but that would take some pretty long frames......... </div>joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-68856644268612662232012-06-28T12:29:00.001-07:002012-06-28T12:30:15.206-07:00All Good Things Must Come to an End<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtL_f8bX9A2gMV8h9jYZil6ZCIBGwBNdRdpsVGcZPL14vTgXPaPgQ3ioVr2lChdHx_ZD0nbkvIGKJtRkS4aQviHXf9YGkgLecLLULQqBplvLxU27lOGwGi5-RZYGrB-wAMGo34X5Rxq-MD/s1600/sf+art+bazaar2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtL_f8bX9A2gMV8h9jYZil6ZCIBGwBNdRdpsVGcZPL14vTgXPaPgQ3ioVr2lChdHx_ZD0nbkvIGKJtRkS4aQviHXf9YGkgLecLLULQqBplvLxU27lOGwGi5-RZYGrB-wAMGo34X5Rxq-MD/s320/sf+art+bazaar2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I wish I had a few more pics of how this display morphed over the weeks, but finally someone was ready to take on the space with new art-- my "April" month display for "Featured Artist" at the <a href="http://www.theartbazaar.org/">Art Bazaar</a> lasted until this last week! I think I got my share of exhibit space plus. Guess the stuff that came home will be going on <a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/LetterDesignStudio">etsy</a> soon. Except for the "Bromeliad" piece which now belongs to my son Evan.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiixWEhi3OAsIVDGyxLzVTAcOIJiC7BewO1UwJ4H2eEQ77Stx5Ovx87hHbgTIasuTC25zSNaMAoSMfG73ZExQPgzpEli0_ZRowiINbgWuZ-33VYQMM4N-uvNQ0UVubcuN6iXyFr-3SP4b_u/s1600/stick+structure+and+other+previous+files+100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiixWEhi3OAsIVDGyxLzVTAcOIJiC7BewO1UwJ4H2eEQ77Stx5Ovx87hHbgTIasuTC25zSNaMAoSMfG73ZExQPgzpEli0_ZRowiINbgWuZ-33VYQMM4N-uvNQ0UVubcuN6iXyFr-3SP4b_u/s320/stick+structure+and+other+previous+files+100.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
If you look closely there are lots of frogs in it -- if you haven't read "The Bromeliad" by Terry Pratchett, you should. I'm waiting for someone to realize what a great pair of movies it would make. (there are three parts, but the last two happen concurrently so they'd have to be in one big movie) It's got everything - fantasy, science fiction, philosophy, romance, and its hilarious to boot.<br />
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And the papercast tower that shows in the corner of the top photo now looks much better with a beautiful wooden base by Tom Schulte. I seem to have lost the photos, maybe later.....<br />
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<br />joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-47661631666577413232012-06-21T12:06:00.000-07:002012-06-21T12:06:10.509-07:00Updates on calligraphic works<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_IO9FqoW-yljuWDZA3XcBHreDPX7rlf6y2XLV4c_HOW_G-5MK6pK66ikuXsVtrFR7UBJYVUJIBOFbuFrBDq_dG3P9I4LVNdBdzAbvoRxj_vfMSVzdI5ivuoNNl1XNfoBhBfGBwwzHJSoa/s1600/sf+23.2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_IO9FqoW-yljuWDZA3XcBHreDPX7rlf6y2XLV4c_HOW_G-5MK6pK66ikuXsVtrFR7UBJYVUJIBOFbuFrBDq_dG3P9I4LVNdBdzAbvoRxj_vfMSVzdI5ivuoNNl1XNfoBhBfGBwwzHJSoa/s320/sf+23.2.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
I think this one is worth making prints of (this is not the professional photo, obviously). Seems like in Jeff City the smaller and cheaper prints go a lot faster than nice large ones, I've had requests for the "Charity" quote smaller sized. It's not that big, I think its the price they want smaller.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPyLt43AnXwUf12wrheQWPRloS0vYo2HnrUyGK6BKjgyZAOyLW9y6OFsdQdcXLN97MEvOGB0OLnFArAAufD7PLT9KE1mkvRi58XxyXmSv_bduRb00BRD9OH7WjxAl6SEpslX8z5w6NEIh7/s1600/sf+charity.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPyLt43AnXwUf12wrheQWPRloS0vYo2HnrUyGK6BKjgyZAOyLW9y6OFsdQdcXLN97MEvOGB0OLnFArAAufD7PLT9KE1mkvRi58XxyXmSv_bduRb00BRD9OH7WjxAl6SEpslX8z5w6NEIh7/s320/sf+charity.jpg" width="205" /></a></div>
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Meanwhile I am still waiting for the glaze to dry on my first oil painting with calligraphy - I was going to add another layer of glaze but maybe this isn't the right kind to layer. It was interesting to be able to go back in and work in the wet glaze.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUSKOF4WsEcANk4XuPWE49jn0yRE7yg2raDItF-NaMjsEbUOl-MSR6j1hIiwNDV1hyphenhyphenx1mF7U6wDB0X871Gx6toS58dI80wATKvKVWLZZVIeX_zboGw7ZfL4JZVY4ytD0HqI9s3kBPUv64Z/s1600/med+file+water.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUSKOF4WsEcANk4XuPWE49jn0yRE7yg2raDItF-NaMjsEbUOl-MSR6j1hIiwNDV1hyphenhyphenx1mF7U6wDB0X871Gx6toS58dI80wATKvKVWLZZVIeX_zboGw7ZfL4JZVY4ytD0HqI9s3kBPUv64Z/s320/med+file+water.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I had wanted to try it on a panel but didn't have one in time, so I'm prepping some little ones I got since then for trials. I'm not sure water-absorbant ground is usually used on panels but I'm going to try it out with thin acrylic gouache backing, possible some writing in the same medium, and then move to oils/glazes.joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-58939660398614735772012-06-07T18:28:00.001-07:002020-04-23T16:53:30.767-07:00STEP 3: (or maybe 1!) Choosing or adapting designs for paper casting<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIOJsPsbLOecMlUh-NW2eybYqT7VvDq_TJcEvi0sGr-ws3QT5-WOMo2m20TqloiPYZm2rPIxSScHiG6l1xrauSJEnKll9J7GNi7TUlyqkupFfhuARsQ9ZOnWV2QHAVpNhaAwUF6XoqnzbC/s1600/sf+cast1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIOJsPsbLOecMlUh-NW2eybYqT7VvDq_TJcEvi0sGr-ws3QT5-WOMo2m20TqloiPYZm2rPIxSScHiG6l1xrauSJEnKll9J7GNi7TUlyqkupFfhuARsQ9ZOnWV2QHAVpNhaAwUF6XoqnzbC/s320/sf+cast1.jpg" width="234" /></a></div>
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<br />
Basically, there are a few "rules of thumb":<br />
<b>Simple, clean lines usually work best.</b><br />
<b>Things
look smaller and farther apart in the casting</b> - (make elements bolder/heavier and
closer together than you might usually do on paper)<br />
Sufficient depth is needed for the design to show up if viewed from any distance --narrow and deep molds can look good because they give good shadows, but they are difficult and labor-intensive to cast well. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZzKJtM-ZsfgKj8E5omailGz19cUF1zfWbPQW_Iu9m_KDtJWHt4L6huDhVlTxuEOm5yeS77_w5RLI5qsYDULMPWTFEH6AAIga8u7YGuFwGbxxy5y7WK2Fl64Njn48Z0Aq5tja7tnpHHW_l/s1600/sf+castclose.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZzKJtM-ZsfgKj8E5omailGz19cUF1zfWbPQW_Iu9m_KDtJWHt4L6huDhVlTxuEOm5yeS77_w5RLI5qsYDULMPWTFEH6AAIga8u7YGuFwGbxxy5y7WK2Fl64Njn48Z0Aq5tja7tnpHHW_l/s320/sf+castclose.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a very popular casting, but do you want to spend several hours putting pulp into crevices with a toothpick?</td></tr>
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There are several other things you might consider when choosing or working out a design for making a casting mold such as: <br />
size, eventual use, difficulty (of cutting mold and of making a casting), legibility (this could mean "reading" or being able to see a design that's not lettering as well), as well as method of mold making (cutting vs.impressing or carving, etc.<br />
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Size: <br />
Polymer clay molds can hold the tiniest details, but that doesn't mean they will be visible from a distance. If you are doing a card that will be held in the hand you can go small and detailed, but for wall art, you want to make sure it will not look like an empty frame hanging there. And very small things are not only hard to cut as a mold but are difficult to put pulp into when casting. However, you can successfully make impressed letters or designs very small - <br />
When I teach beginning classes, I ask the students bring designs where the lettering (x-height) is not less than 1/2 inch high, preferably without hairlines or serifs. If you want it to be readable on a wall and easy to mold, you will need the clay layers about as thick as a matboard and your smallest design elements should be no smaller than that thickness.<br />
Since the easiest method for <a href="http://letterdesignstudio.blogspot.com/2012/02/transferring-your-design-to-polymer.html">transferring the design</a> starts with a photocopy, make several in varying sizes so you can do some last-minutes adjusting, maybe even cutting and pasting elements from various sizes. <br />
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You will also have to consider the size of the oven. If you are being safe with a dedicated toaster oven, your mold does have to fit in it. Often an 8x10 tile fits well for baking on so this would be your maximum mold size including extra around the edges for making your lovely deckle, making the maximum design size more like 5x7".<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSEU7cV-gkdUEtvbCDpW1AXnicIUUiBX2-N_FEVeNNQs98cQ2vdlP8PBPZ4LyD5OAQ04VAVKYeXWClgB38EelUYUMtaTaQukZsaNPePzFKdOEzt7D0RQDptW1xQu0Yh9C6Isz0sBuxIpUc/s1600/sf+cast7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSEU7cV-gkdUEtvbCDpW1AXnicIUUiBX2-N_FEVeNNQs98cQ2vdlP8PBPZ4LyD5OAQ04VAVKYeXWClgB38EelUYUMtaTaQukZsaNPePzFKdOEzt7D0RQDptW1xQu0Yh9C6Isz0sBuxIpUc/s320/sf+cast7.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">these are samples I bring for beginning classes to try out their first mold</td></tr>
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If you are going bigger, you can use baking sheets, cardboard, even masonite to bake molds on.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyfJRud_wi725TJ8SnwmKmEhmPhvZjY_a7gH4vyNV4-HHhOd-oigrXBO5bEd_SGQEuPyrtbrIejFL4LVJda8YPYJou_bJLwZJiN4NrJEJURqQOVXSEU0AVRxsS1PHp1LksckQO4-WNAy3N/s1600/sf+casttower.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyfJRud_wi725TJ8SnwmKmEhmPhvZjY_a7gH4vyNV4-HHhOd-oigrXBO5bEd_SGQEuPyrtbrIejFL4LVJda8YPYJou_bJLwZJiN4NrJEJURqQOVXSEU0AVRxsS1PHp1LksckQO4-WNAy3N/s320/sf+casttower.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The height of the taller sides are the width of my oven, baked on masonite pieces</td></tr>
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Use:<br />
As mentioned above, you can go small if the item is something hand-held like a card or a book. You can make letter stamps from clay or do tiny writing by using the Clay Shaper to impress letters.You might be able to call attention to a wall piece with large letters or designs and have some smaller elements to discover as people come closer. Of course, the lighting where someone views it is going to make a big difference and you may or may not have control over that.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhO1RAslojtTYe0Oj7nrWLCVHMzeQGM97hOAWnXdXLqCt7RvcI54bqVLThMKnFerrR6VM33A8SAqMiL53wHtUCXjWWZoNWm64aDZOADS-VCAH1mdKPlYisx_Nh8aEb4ZW83qelknrLaQFv/s1600/sf+cast5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhO1RAslojtTYe0Oj7nrWLCVHMzeQGM97hOAWnXdXLqCt7RvcI54bqVLThMKnFerrR6VM33A8SAqMiL53wHtUCXjWWZoNWm64aDZOADS-VCAH1mdKPlYisx_Nh8aEb4ZW83qelknrLaQFv/s320/sf+cast5.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This one is easy to cast but harder to see, I remade it in a smaller size to use as a card</td></tr>
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Difficulty: <br />
You will also want to consider how much time and effort you are willing to put into making castings. One of my most popular castings is also the hardest to cast (see second photo above), taking as long as three or four hours to make sure pulp is down in all the crevices and that colors are in the right places. This is not really a lot of fun and you are unlikely to sell them for enough money to make your time worthwhile (unless may you live in New York?). On the other hand, perhaps you only want to make one for yourself and many hours of work is not a problem.<br />
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Straight lines are good. Sometimes you can simplify just by cutting off serifs or other tiny details. Stencil designs are helpful to look at, they are usually bold and simple <br />
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As mentioned above, you will have trouble cutting if the width of the letter stroke (or design element) is less than the thickness of your clay layer. The simpler the design and the wider the area cut, the easier it will be to cast. Impressed letters, especially small ones, are fast and easy to cast.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf6H-uvWQfUVck5tWSDDOuDca-gv7nvwxzRgRZxpWO3S5nZkaF9J6mxukh3h96xDx7LBbDUZW-lKYuVjCki4Ex8DczriM-UirN2MXowhJvwIklEvqTnPkESv3JAW20fqEznFCdvJ0VLMBb/s1600/sf+cast10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf6H-uvWQfUVck5tWSDDOuDca-gv7nvwxzRgRZxpWO3S5nZkaF9J6mxukh3h96xDx7LBbDUZW-lKYuVjCki4Ex8DczriM-UirN2MXowhJvwIklEvqTnPkESv3JAW20fqEznFCdvJ0VLMBb/s320/sf+cast10.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This student project is very crisp and clear and will be fairly easy to cast. Below it is a test casting of small impressed lettering across the bottom - a small trial mold was made and baked and cast.</td></tr>
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Sometimes complications in the mold do not make it hard later, such as the multi-layered NOEL which was very tricky to figure out and cut, but is fairly easy to cast.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRlYxWCoaRD9UEmBt6eJI6YVa-W1-omP0Y9piwEHFXXZlmdaoE6thVR60sNBDXRd-X6CAbcnhFpjX8bNB0YwwR8zJl4qN02SRjK5Q769vdbK50jAkjtxACcm2I12LCBb9xALi5PR7wICsf/s1600/sf+noel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRlYxWCoaRD9UEmBt6eJI6YVa-W1-omP0Y9piwEHFXXZlmdaoE6thVR60sNBDXRd-X6CAbcnhFpjX8bNB0YwwR8zJl4qN02SRjK5Q769vdbK50jAkjtxACcm2I12LCBb9xALi5PR7wICsf/s320/sf+noel.jpg" width="258" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">paper cast Noel from polymer clay mold</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix0gq_dejNhDD0NO87d4JRmXFWM5SpgUQrdmvresOe35s-KMRIcI6r_7qPOfdLl5TJNGALrTWcftzBg3tYdBgiukbqY3Up4mpdq8sAQQu6NdDAnOj6TcAbigx6OA1YBezSFpNNetrJKhEM/s1600/sf+cast9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix0gq_dejNhDD0NO87d4JRmXFWM5SpgUQrdmvresOe35s-KMRIcI6r_7qPOfdLl5TJNGALrTWcftzBg3tYdBgiukbqY3Up4mpdq8sAQQu6NdDAnOj6TcAbigx6OA1YBezSFpNNetrJKhEM/s320/sf+cast9.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the planning for NOEL, second and third try</td></tr>
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You can also make casting easier if you open up narrow areas by making it more of a wide "V" cut so the pulp can get in and out more easily. This can be done after the mold is baked and a test casting made, by scraping gently with your x-acto.<br />
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Legibility:<br />
If no one can read the words or figure out the design it doesn't matter how well you cut the mold or cast it. It is the shadows that really show up, or the contrast between the highest white and the cast shadow. So some things can work with the letters going down and some won't. Here is an example of a design done two ways to see which would work best (lettering "up" or "down"):<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfLz_DyQaKHnM3HMVYd4GLFN7jdSKAKjUqoSV9ZOfc_LjvEBZ2D506V6W6825S3EfUh-ql_JswkNK8fyLfCh60zTydNQFs7gsHZmbdysVk_lhGPWC6gvJY504kdr0cEZYuWzIuC7toxn_1/s1600/sf+two+molds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfLz_DyQaKHnM3HMVYd4GLFN7jdSKAKjUqoSV9ZOfc_LjvEBZ2D506V6W6825S3EfUh-ql_JswkNK8fyLfCh60zTydNQFs7gsHZmbdysVk_lhGPWC6gvJY504kdr0cEZYuWzIuC7toxn_1/s400/sf+two+molds.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Its even more obvious in person, but the one on the right is so much more legible! In both cases the backing layer was textured, which puts the texture on the top part of the casting.</td></tr>
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And this is one that I never fixed or cast after the test because I was thinking that having "darkness" going down would make it darker but it was lighter because of less shadow. (If I were going to use this mold I would rub clay into the name at the bottom and bake a little and redo.)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkyPjroawZbaoXN0J1-VdehKZ1SwuwqtaMfTOqzqcGY-jdBsC9jQWsFfrM99eNnRnqlUS2GCsEi0xgGaXsl67kExz9Usxxb6CRP5zOg8sbvalIrZ9JUvWzAadyoBaj4Ypep6Gjx0Iojo2k/s1600/sf+cast6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkyPjroawZbaoXN0J1-VdehKZ1SwuwqtaMfTOqzqcGY-jdBsC9jQWsFfrM99eNnRnqlUS2GCsEi0xgGaXsl67kExz9Usxxb6CRP5zOg8sbvalIrZ9JUvWzAadyoBaj4Ypep6Gjx0Iojo2k/s320/sf+cast6.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">you can learn from my mistakes!</td></tr>
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Here's one where having the letters "going down" works just fine-<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizIF5_pd-cL2dIlzlfPZTPBiFPxCXFBjJvOQABy7HwjWD5GUlpRNbzWVqO4gS40qZYsiiTu7i1q9IYZ3yTyTYKNvM-0ZKc2TIo9NbgMdDnAGaYO__kUBSKrl6vngO7tjx9pGtdtwFkR3AQ/s1600/sf+round.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizIF5_pd-cL2dIlzlfPZTPBiFPxCXFBjJvOQABy7HwjWD5GUlpRNbzWVqO4gS40qZYsiiTu7i1q9IYZ3yTyTYKNvM-0ZKc2TIo9NbgMdDnAGaYO__kUBSKrl6vngO7tjx9pGtdtwFkR3AQ/s320/sf+round.jpg" width="305" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a tiny one, used as an ornament or on cards.</td></tr>
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Method:<br />
Multiple layers make it possible to have smaller and larger lettering or more complicated designs (just keep adding "backing") - the "windows" one above that I didn't like has three layers of depth plus "added on" words for the ones that go down in the casting.<br />
If you want to impress instead of cut, you can make your own alphabet stamps of Premo, bake them, and use talcum to make sure you can get them out of the soft clay when pushed in-<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3U1ONQfQltGvjicQJlkyuCGfgf2K4wTJet5CGNS6UlTq_6ERcOzHYhPfQLG7U1tsBi7MLbqu1-yFCMEGppKECWRfdwWn6Kmd4mkXqncYLEOhbHMN8okJlZbTiMuVxvtnLemjTKQ_QBx0h/s1600/book2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3U1ONQfQltGvjicQJlkyuCGfgf2K4wTJet5CGNS6UlTq_6ERcOzHYhPfQLG7U1tsBi7MLbqu1-yFCMEGppKECWRfdwWn6Kmd4mkXqncYLEOhbHMN8okJlZbTiMuVxvtnLemjTKQ_QBx0h/s320/book2.jpg" width="295" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paper Cast Book using alphabet stamps made from polymer clay</td></tr>
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<br />
these letters can still take some care to cast if you want them really clean and sharp.<br />
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Here's a mold with letters impressed with a coffee stirrer stick pushed down around the outside of the letters. These are very quick and easy to cast and dry quickly, good for making lots of cards<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTWUwgBpDK7G1xNrW1qabKw-7Qu6CScozSSf_ZH_aa5WNycG6pIS95ArBb-l5bY44RGmeTbEywq3nraKfKFIciod6xTXQpXwZYL2pfJ2RZsLFeaDvk7NBonmw_mWVF9bucw-yCTz3AG6dQ/s1600/sf+cast8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTWUwgBpDK7G1xNrW1qabKw-7Qu6CScozSSf_ZH_aa5WNycG6pIS95ArBb-l5bY44RGmeTbEywq3nraKfKFIciod6xTXQpXwZYL2pfJ2RZsLFeaDvk7NBonmw_mWVF9bucw-yCTz3AG6dQ/s320/sf+cast8.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The design came from a Christmas card done previously - original in pencil<br />
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Baked or unbaked clay can be carved with carving tools.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyvSDmne4QoDB07zo1Bj_Ef2mMDNjotROWOP69ebof7qqKLDCuEBlinMCobSX_eDVb2-8m_CRRGozC3d8r-93HyeWIgsQfFUs66kwqK9y_Nc8D0L5RGsqR7PA03qmSkQSMttcZEKqmiRW3/s1600/sf+cast13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyvSDmne4QoDB07zo1Bj_Ef2mMDNjotROWOP69ebof7qqKLDCuEBlinMCobSX_eDVb2-8m_CRRGozC3d8r-93HyeWIgsQfFUs66kwqK9y_Nc8D0L5RGsqR7PA03qmSkQSMttcZEKqmiRW3/s320/sf+cast13.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A workshop participant in Salt Lake City combined cutting and linoleum and other tools</td></tr>
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Of course, methods can be combined in one piece.<br />
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Last but not least, <b>all</b> designs will benefit from having a borderline around them. Make it tighter in than you would think. Even if you don't use it to cut a raised or lowered border, you will need it to help make your deckle edge symmetrical - or as a guide to change where you put your deckle if the test casting shows its too near or far. <br />
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So, once you have the design chosen and its size worked out, <a href="http://letterdesignstudio.blogspot.com/2012/01/preparing-polymer-clay-for-casting.html">you can decide how to prepare your clay</a> (allow extra space around the edges, make layers thin if you are going to cut through more than one), <a href="http://letterdesignstudio.blogspot.com/2012/02/transferring-your-design-to-polymer.html">transfer your design</a>, and<a href="http://letterdesignstudio.blogspot.com/2012/05/cutting-your-paper-casting-mold-backing.html"> cut your mold. and bake.</a><br />
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Congratulations! next comes making your test casting.<br />
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<i>Feel free to send design ideas for help and comment. (joan@letterdesignstudio.com)</i><br />
and don't forget, I love to come and<a href="http://letterdesignstudio.com/classes/teachingPolicies.html"> teach</a> this in person- I'm better at explaining and problem-solving in real life than I am at writing.<br />
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<br />joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-544815910422517614.post-86028851661180467442012-05-26T16:11:00.001-07:002020-04-23T16:54:12.719-07:00STEP 5: Cutting your paper casting Mold, Backing and BakingYou should have your clay all <a href="http://letterdesignstudio.blogspot.com/2012/01/preparing-polymer-clay-for-casting.html">rolled </a>to a proper thickness, <a href="http://letterdesignstudio.blogspot.com/2012/02/joining-strips-of-polymer-clay-for.html">joined</a> if necessary to make it big enough, with your <a href="http://letterdesignstudio.blogspot.com/2012/02/transferring-your-design-to-polymer.html">design transferred</a> onto the smoothest side of the clay -- Of course your clay is on waxed paper that is taped securely to a stiff piece of chipboard (like the backing of a good sketchbook). Healable cutting mats are not good because they feel about the same as clay when cutting so you don't feel the depth to cut to very well. And its handy to use the board under it throughout the process, plus you can size it just a little bigger than your clay to make it easier to move around.<br />
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You will need an X-acto type knife with a straight blade. A very helpful tool, well worth searching out, is a small <a href="http://www.sculpt.com/catalog_98/CLAYTOOLS/clayshapers.htm">"Clay Shaper"</a> flat chisel tip size 0. If you are familiar with "Colour shapers" this is about the same but with a firmer black tip, make sure you get the tiny size 0 one.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNPPPKc6qsLFvFKVN1uJfRdiJAMZhFAZY0yVDhVYYjWqI2OTqjTMZ3-z1ARKzJm3T8oAaEzse_VEsN-ZWZFdFkmmSX6rEA2viehD_JyAZ4D2_5e1DOqJIYIGCupSKs_nJpZOgvhjcfuGfB/s1600/sf+cutone.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNPPPKc6qsLFvFKVN1uJfRdiJAMZhFAZY0yVDhVYYjWqI2OTqjTMZ3-z1ARKzJm3T8oAaEzse_VEsN-ZWZFdFkmmSX6rEA2viehD_JyAZ4D2_5e1DOqJIYIGCupSKs_nJpZOgvhjcfuGfB/s320/sf+cutone.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">hold the knife upright and vertical, with a slight angle for a V or valley cut</td></tr>
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We will assume for this first project that you are going to want your letters (or shapes) raised in the casting, which means you will cut them out of the clay for the mold. Rule 2 of casting is "What goes DOWN in the mold goes UP in the casting" which sounds very basic but can really be confusing sometimes. (Rule 1 is "move waxed paper, not clay") Our brains aren't meant to run backwards and casting reverses everything. In fact, take a second to look at that design transferred onto your clay -- if reads forwards, you did it backwards! It should be in reverse (mirror image).<br />
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With your clay taped down (waxed paper masking-taped to cardboard), you are ready to start. Hold your knife vertically so you are using the point and have the blade up so only the narrowest part is in the clay - this makes it much easier to turn corners. You will want just a bit of a "V" cut so that the casting will come out of the mold. Think of the tip pointing toward the part of the design that will be removed. If you used acetone transfer it is easy to remember you want to cut away all the black.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeq3MN7jYQ5QvDYJCG0VgKTS1AJUtDHiLpgLx9hJaMPsfPcBbpaSYmUC8zDaBefZ42wNU2Si1D4nu0HGFvht6bfUz_oNIfa-WbTKBisnmJzHAQ6G-9z5ze-ibVSQz02W4hOJ4grluKE4ey/s1600/sf+cut2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeq3MN7jYQ5QvDYJCG0VgKTS1AJUtDHiLpgLx9hJaMPsfPcBbpaSYmUC8zDaBefZ42wNU2Si1D4nu0HGFvht6bfUz_oNIfa-WbTKBisnmJzHAQ6G-9z5ze-ibVSQz02W4hOJ4grluKE4ey/s320/sf+cut2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cut away the black portions of the polymer clay</td></tr>
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It is much easier to avoid "undercutting" (having the angle wrong so there is the opposite of a V) if you cut from the right-hand edge, turning the mold around as needed (unless you're a lefty, then reverse). Do not cut all the right sides and then turn, as the clay will start to heal itself. You can cut small pieces out as you go.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cut out the design with a slight "V" angle so the casting can come out</td></tr>
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If the clay is not cutting cleanly even if you have the knife vertical and move it along smoothly without chopping, you will find it helps immensely to chill the clay. You can simply put a freezer pack underneath the cardboard (helps to have the freezer pack on top of a folded or "scrumpled" towel to stabilize it). You can also put the whole thing in the freezer for a few minutes, but of course you will have to keep putting it back as it warms up.<br />
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For this mold, the clay outside the borderline will be cut away.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJMP8nqDTCF-poiZ8NwNd_61MoFmGeIZAICqBP8MKMXL5ACzDeHx1wPJgetGxhmugjQZuKgSj8uJqILsJyUeAMDI-jLquHOXPUyZ_Jl9K40iJNF3xyWrnXbjQG2sIe4GfnHusAxv0f0x0h/s1600/sf+cut1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJMP8nqDTCF-poiZ8NwNd_61MoFmGeIZAICqBP8MKMXL5ACzDeHx1wPJgetGxhmugjQZuKgSj8uJqILsJyUeAMDI-jLquHOXPUyZ_Jl9K40iJNF3xyWrnXbjQG2sIe4GfnHusAxv0f0x0h/s320/sf+cut1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">hold the x-acto fairly vertically and slant with the point towards the clay you are removing</td></tr>
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Notice the tip is slanted toward the part being removed.<br />
Cut from the outside of the lines so you are cutting away the line itself, since your slant will make things a bit smaller, and casting tends to make things look smaller and farther apart. <br />
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You are hoping to cut through the clay smoothly without cutting through the waxed paper - this can take a little practice so don't stress, but it will make it easier on complicated molds to make sure you get all the waxed paper off, as it will be in one piece.<br />
If you have rough edges or tears at the corners, now is the time the Clay Shaper earns its keep - use it to gently smooth, to press bits back in place, etc. It's great to make it as smooth and neat as you can but after a while you can start to cause as many problems as you fix - most things are fixable later too, when the clay is baked and not likely to get fingernail marks, etc. from over-doing the fixing. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">you want the flat chisel tip! size 0, the wooden one is the same tip plus a wire one and may be called a sculpting tool</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">using the Clay Shaper to hold small bits in place while removing waxed paper</td></tr>
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When you are done cutting and smoothing, cover the whole thing with a clean piece of waxed paper, rubbing lightly to help it adhere (especially if you have small loose pieces of clay in your design). Cut away or loosen the tape, then place another cardboard on top and carefully flip it over. Remove the original cardboard and carefully peel every bit of waxed paper off your clay.<br />
Now you can see your design "forwards" and see how you like it - don't worry too much if it seems off, this side will be against the background and little variations really won't show. If you really think you cut it wrong you can add waxed paper again and flip it back and recut.<br />
If you have unconnected pieces like the counters in letters, they will be extra secure if you can put just a tiny bit of Sculpey Diluent or Softener (I think its the same stuff, they've changed the name) - barely a drop on an old brush will do several spots.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj35UylzitJl7Z9sAt9d2dC2RI05GYmAmnWcPo1QrajWCtZ6ZgpQaInNJNNRLAlh97q2pZKQc37C6HcubUk6-nQ1fVyykHwjE7mQ4rXrsHTxGMgvbvCYd61x0z3kHinnxXRL2_b7CpQTT09/s1600/sf+diluent.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj35UylzitJl7Z9sAt9d2dC2RI05GYmAmnWcPo1QrajWCtZ6ZgpQaInNJNNRLAlh97q2pZKQc37C6HcubUk6-nQ1fVyykHwjE7mQ4rXrsHTxGMgvbvCYd61x0z3kHinnxXRL2_b7CpQTT09/s320/sf+diluent.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Diluent or Softener - this bottle has lasted 11 years, it doesn't take much</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmMLNehU_z71FcW-LNbhHFXdfhbbxtY2EGUy5pNNMYgmxdnMUJeRWckP3CRxGTBnsSq23AiH_AAzLVm2zaU5W4amONssGZwIqqVbNnPhKZJJIKeV8TtYY6YXTfWV12cHxtrZ3Yil6ehxTH/s1600/sf+diluent2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmMLNehU_z71FcW-LNbhHFXdfhbbxtY2EGUy5pNNMYgmxdnMUJeRWckP3CRxGTBnsSq23AiH_AAzLVm2zaU5W4amONssGZwIqqVbNnPhKZJJIKeV8TtYY6YXTfWV12cHxtrZ3Yil6ehxTH/s320/sf+diluent2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">there's enough in this drop for many spots to be wet enough so they will adhere better in the mold</td></tr>
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<b>Adding the backing</b> (OR second layer in a multiple layer piece) <br />
Your backing layer should be thicker - if you are using a pasta machine use the thickest setting - and it needs to be at least <a href="http://letterdesignstudio.blogspot.com/2012/02/joining-strips-of-polymer-clay-for.html">3/4" bigger</a> all around than the border of the first piece.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB7wqBec8GfXB2a86RD1xaODNBHEAykC7Y4WcZZ8dx22-8us-Jpnef3SPBYiF7_CQ6irwVWZ4i-m_dkP8lGXedBHNQeDSfDK5LdpusJdD6Is04LcdbVeNd-jyf6s_uyLkl5-fWj9mMYf1U/s1600/backing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB7wqBec8GfXB2a86RD1xaODNBHEAykC7Y4WcZZ8dx22-8us-Jpnef3SPBYiF7_CQ6irwVWZ4i-m_dkP8lGXedBHNQeDSfDK5LdpusJdD6Is04LcdbVeNd-jyf6s_uyLkl5-fWj9mMYf1U/s1600/backing.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">thicker backing layer ready to lay over <i>flipped-over</i> cut-out design - note everything was cut away outside of border</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFnJro9QL-CiCgamoyErlSUFM5lq72TuI1vnXMHADW0OAAChgLu9QYsjo-eqZvFLysash_4M4KZx56w2IFDNsHp2j9WWl-8gGTP8dDhLqZ1tRsciB6VTnqrK00Lb1d-cSAzzpT-tHbD7KV/s1600/sf+backing2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFnJro9QL-CiCgamoyErlSUFM5lq72TuI1vnXMHADW0OAAChgLu9QYsjo-eqZvFLysash_4M4KZx56w2IFDNsHp2j9WWl-8gGTP8dDhLqZ1tRsciB6VTnqrK00Lb1d-cSAzzpT-tHbD7KV/s1600/sf+backing2.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">laying it down as centered as you can</td></tr>
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After double-checking that there is no waxed paper anywhere on top of your design, you will take the thicker clay (on its waxed paper, of course) and carefully lay it over the design, (wax paper up-clay onto clay) keeping it as centered as you can. It helps if you can start from one side and press it on lightly to help keep from getting bubbles between the layers.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GRkilQfeBQfAwI4e6urt2d0PDY9rMJpNLwsKiLRh8YaGknKVDLv5V6vTORFJ_VC1yU6KY3W-O-63zmQukhZ_GY2JvWPdkdq-buCWIJ4lj1u8N3i82IItLo9R9XABwBP7oWT3g94vtUPD/s1600/sf+mold5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GRkilQfeBQfAwI4e6urt2d0PDY9rMJpNLwsKiLRh8YaGknKVDLv5V6vTORFJ_VC1yU6KY3W-O-63zmQukhZ_GY2JvWPdkdq-buCWIJ4lj1u8N3i82IItLo9R9XABwBP7oWT3g94vtUPD/s320/sf+mold5.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">carefully adding a second layer of polymer clay over the "forwards" design</td></tr>
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Rub lightly, especially if there are small pieces you want to make sure are sticking to the backing layer. Now slip cardboard under and carefully flip it back over, then remove the wax paper that is over the design.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcf0KdNJ5sZLCJH3cmT9PzXZhvp6GUvUxgX-eTrh4RAMYq093Fpzmp3-laZuI_25sY9rWg85qJnYp335Ir2rAarDjUZUGL1Gx0H1sKDNcN14iTwGf8tUbQ2SUMz2ytUcNvffxP8CTHucTN/s1600/sf+flip.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcf0KdNJ5sZLCJH3cmT9PzXZhvp6GUvUxgX-eTrh4RAMYq093Fpzmp3-laZuI_25sY9rWg85qJnYp335Ir2rAarDjUZUGL1Gx0H1sKDNcN14iTwGf8tUbQ2SUMz2ytUcNvffxP8CTHucTN/s1600/sf+flip.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">slip cardboard under and flip it back over</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmPnDSoNQ4twzyCBzISDWnaE-ivfL7PADPMxwI_gGE0M4ZNNH0ihLeHN3TAuOS6pToRZPEWH_aT16CTnY5cO86jWIJKGYdMfe7HcDakO9-rfKEXNCD1eoFlHUEurNFXbr3qibNfyQrm0GC/s1600/sf+flip+again.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmPnDSoNQ4twzyCBzISDWnaE-ivfL7PADPMxwI_gGE0M4ZNNH0ihLeHN3TAuOS6pToRZPEWH_aT16CTnY5cO86jWIJKGYdMfe7HcDakO9-rfKEXNCD1eoFlHUEurNFXbr3qibNfyQrm0GC/s1600/sf+flip+again.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">remove waxed paper off top of design</td></tr>
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The backing layer covers up the "forwards" design - so if you have a backing layer on and your design is not reversed, oops, you didn't flip it! if you are quick and it hasn't adhered you can probably carefully pull it off and do it right.You can use the clay shaper again to smooth and fix, especially small pieces that might need to be put back into position.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIbSmcW0KTtn6eBbkOD1KMMeuLNa6qW-ZxWxx2cEt4iiE7c7eO11bEnFuXVQ87uV6k1VZXoF-X14Rp76R15dPq8365XVoPBGSm9QaN6s-Fmnr_aRZ9ld7-itb4pMslAfqUqkU2_xgLgSyd/s1600/sf+mold8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIbSmcW0KTtn6eBbkOD1KMMeuLNa6qW-ZxWxx2cEt4iiE7c7eO11bEnFuXVQ87uV6k1VZXoF-X14Rp76R15dPq8365XVoPBGSm9QaN6s-Fmnr_aRZ9ld7-itb4pMslAfqUqkU2_xgLgSyd/s320/sf+mold8.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">on this mold, the yellow is a second layer and another backing will be added after more cutting.</td></tr>
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Trim it evenly, leaving plenty of space for your deckle to be made. If it follows the border line of the first piece it will be easier to tell where to make the edge of the casting. If you think you see air bubbles, stick with a pin and smooth over gently with finger. If the hole isn't wanting to disappear you can fill it or smooth it after baking - that's better than making dents from trying too hard.<br />
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<b>Bake!</b> a smooth ceramic tile(under $1 at Lowe's) is great for baking molds on, but not required - a cookie sheet, even the cardboard will work. Leave the waxed paper under it for now.<br />
Premo bakes at 275 for 30 minutes for 1/4 inch thickness. You can hold a ruler to the edge to gauge thickness if you want. The small molds like the bird shown above or "joy" below need about 20-25 minutes. If your oven isn't overheated, longer will not hurt. If it comes out with bubbles, or warps, you can lay a tile on top (smooth side down of course) to hold it flat while it cools and it will stay that way.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik4Kfw8IoPQyjcApg_-Dh7dJ8j-vcZ-ZKk2O5cXEjzuTzy0wo8OyxXQO_HURr11MmYes2HbyCfxVWUhmFiEPAGdgvbqdqSfTUXn4FfVSk-alC7jSk7QkBsm5z-L-2mC4sb-EVgchRZsgT6/s1600/sf+mold+done.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik4Kfw8IoPQyjcApg_-Dh7dJ8j-vcZ-ZKk2O5cXEjzuTzy0wo8OyxXQO_HURr11MmYes2HbyCfxVWUhmFiEPAGdgvbqdqSfTUXn4FfVSk-alC7jSk7QkBsm5z-L-2mC4sb-EVgchRZsgT6/s400/sf+mold+done.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A finished mold. It would be much easier to cast with a nice, even edge if the backing layer had been cut wider and more evenly matched to the shape</td></tr>
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Its best to use a dedicated oven, like a good quality toaster oven, since the fumes are definitely not healthy - at least use all the ventilation you can. Afterwords you can reheat the oven to a higher temp and then open and ventilate some more to make sure fumes are out and won't be in your food (I hope - if I die of polymer clay some day, will we even know?). Toaster ovens' thermostats can be pretty unreliable so you might invest in an oven thermometer.<br />
That's it! it takes longer to describe than to make, really pretty simple. Just cut out the design being careful not to undercut, flip over to add a backing layer, trim and bake.<br />
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"Making the Casting" tutorial will be posted very soon.<br />
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Remember, for personal, live instruction and experienced problem-prevention, you can gather a group for a <a href="http://letterdesignstudio.com/classes/teachingPolicies.html">workshop</a> <br />
<br />joanMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07591756358273435745noreply@blogger.com1